Val di Chiana: A Journey into Tuscany’s History, Flavor, and Beauty
The Val di Chiana (or Chiana Valley) stretches across the provinces of Arezzo and Siena in Tuscany and reaching into Perugia, Terni and Orvieto in Umbria. The valley is bordered by the Val d’Orcia to the west and the Val Tiberina to the east. As you can immagine, this land offers rolling landscapes and charming hill towns. It is where Tuscany breathes a little more slowly, inviting you to savor its authenticity.
If you haven’t been there yet, here it is all you need to know,
A Brief History of the Chiana Valley
Once a marshy floodplain, the valley was inhabited as early as the Etruscan era, with significant archaeological remains found in towns like Chiusi and Cortona. These early settlements were highly advanced, particularly in hydraulic engineering, laying the foundation for the valley’s future transformation.
Under the Roman empire, the valley became a stop-over along the Roman road network, and great efforts to drain the land began. However, it wasn’t until the Middle Ages and later the Renaissance, under the rule of the Medici and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, that significant reclamation projects took shape. One example is the Canale Maestro della Chiana which was built to regulate the water flow and prevent flooding, turning the area into the land we see today.
Must-Visit Towns in Val di Chiana
Today, the Val di Chiana is a captivating destination that combines natural beauty, rich heritage, but also culinary excellence. It may sound similar to other great destinations in Tuscany, but Chiana Valley is less crowded. Here, you can enjoy rustic farmhouses, warm village markets, slow food culture, and a landscape that has inspired painters for centuries. Here are some of the most compelling towns to explore in the valley:
Cortona
Perched on a hill with sweeping views of the valley, Cortona is perhaps the most famous town in Val di Chiana, thanks in part to Frances Mayes’ memoir Under the Tuscan Sun.
This Etruscan city offers cobbled streets, beautiful churches like Santa Margherita, and the fascinating MAEC museum (Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca), which showcases local archaeological finds.
Montepulciano
Famous for its Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, this Renaissance hill town is a wine lover’s dream. In addition to its cellars and tasting rooms, Montepulciano charms visitors with its elegant palazzi, dramatic main square, and panoramic views.
Chiusi
This town was one of the most important Etruscan centers in ancient times. The must-see attractions are the Etruscan tombs, the Museo Nazionale Etrusco, and the underground labyrinth beneath the town’s cathedral.
Lucignano
It is a perfect-preserved medieval village famous for its elliptical street plan and ancient walls.
The town’s Museo Comunale houses the “Tree of Life,” a unique gold and crystal reliquary.
Foiano della Chiana
Foiano is popular for hosting one of the oldest carnivals in Italy, but also for the Val di Chiana canal system, an engineering marvel. It’s a great place to learn about the valley’s transformation from swamp to farmland.
Sinalunga and Castiglion Fiorentino
These lesser-known but picturesque towns are full of charm, offering quiet streets, lovely churches, and easy access to hiking and cycling paths in the surrounding countryside.
Activities to Enjoy in Val di Chiana
There’s no shortage of ways to experience Val di Chiana’s bounty, whether you’re looking for adventure or relaxation:
1. Wine and Food Tastings
Visit local wineries to sample the reds of nearby Chianti Colli Senesi. Pair your wine with local cheeses, fresh produce, and—most famously—Chianina beef, one of the oldest and most prized cattle breeds in the world. This massive white breed has been raised in the valley since Etruscan times and is the traditional source of the Bistecca alla Fiorentina, Tuscany’s iconic T-bone steak.
2. Explore the Etruscan Past
History buffs will find plenty to explore. The Etruscans left a unique legacy in Tuscany that’s more accessible and less touristy than the Roman ruins elsewhere in Italy.
3. Cycling and Walking
The flatness of the valley floor and the beauty of the surrounding hills make Val di Chiana ideal for cycling and walking. The Sentiero della Bonifica, a 62-kilometer trail following the reclaimed canal route, is perfect for biking or hiking.
4. Cooking Classes and Agritourism
Participate in hands-on cooking lessons in local farmhouses or agriturismos, where you can learn to make pasta from scratch, use seasonal vegetables from the garden, and cook Chianina beef over an open flame.
5. Local Festivals
If you plan your travel at the right time you will be lucky enough to be part of a local sagra (food festival) or historical reenactment. Events like the Palio dei Rioni in Castiglion Fiorentino or the Lucignano Maggiolata offer a festive peek into local traditions.
